Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and travelers equally celebrating its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, Unesco designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a select group of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it enters a worldwide network of over 400 metropolises across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "is a testament to its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and dynamic culinary scene," as stated by a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this time-honored city comes as no surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's largest state – is at last in the spotlight for what has consistently defined its essence: an unparalleled love for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a continued conversation from morning until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and taken to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, blending Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates fresh harvests but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on many street corners, there are small establishments and stalls – little-known delights that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a no-frills joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is precise and demanding. The cook hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but express concern that their younger generation do not want to take up the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will encourage more people globally to discover these narratives and visit the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
