Lena de Vries is een maritiem consultant met 15 jaar ervaring in havenlogistiek en scheepsbeheer.
When assembling a list of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred names. Yet, situated high among these culinary titans is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung area of north London.
The compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. This accolade has made the proprietors completely surprised.
“I’m totally shocked,” states the family member, alluding to his family’s dedication that led to their humble place securing such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.
This little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its former feel. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” comments the owner.
In the end, it’s all about the food, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender texture.
It is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.
The wrap is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.
Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.
When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly profile.
Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.
Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for less than £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.
It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.
“In my view what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”
The view is echoed by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.
Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.
Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.
“My mum used to be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.
This restaurant’s accolade is set to echo outside its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this culinary honour.
Lena de Vries is een maritiem consultant met 15 jaar ervaring in havenlogistiek en scheepsbeheer.